I know I have done something in the past, something that I will try to deepen the previous article. Remember that this is to know means to cover the entire spectrum on this issue. First of all is that you learn as much as possible before you want to start the project.
Now that I drop things easy, let's dive in head first. Of course, when I say learn as much as possible on the machine before starting the project, I read my magazines and publicationsbased on the steps of the restoration of a car.
Let me outline some of my choices as a reading on the subject. My favorite bar Hemmings Motor News publish any in this book is a wealth of information on this topic. Hemmings also covers parts localization, and many other necessary things.
So, I would say that you should take to publications like Rod & Custom magazine to subscribe, the magazine will also be much easier to knowYour car restoration. I know that sounds like a lot to read, but the more you know, the better it will end, eventually.
I would also like Craft Magazine Car and Hot Rod magazine recommend these great magazines. They are often exposed to a complete construction of a machine, I read many of these questions. They give a lot of good advice and information, you can use.
Finally, the last stage of the reading was a Barnes & Nobel, and get all the books that can be foundBased on the specific machine to be recovered, to stand. This includes the By Numbers The book and everything you see, that focuses on your specific car to use.
This ends the part of the reading process, now assume that you already have the car you want to restore. We can go to the control of the car, starts with the front of the car and work on the back of the car, or you can work from back to front, if you prefer.
During the inspection will beare things that need to be replaced or repaired, they are looking for. What you do here is, to a notebook computer or laptop. Split a page into three sections, the top of your work well in the sections that replace the label of repair, e.
In these sections, you get the parts that belong in each section in the appropriate section. I would also suggest that images of all these parts before removing them from the machine. This will create the first invoice, you can start to buySpare parts for your car.
This will more than likely a huge list of people who can be any part of the car, the grille, taillights. Do not want to miss something, slow down at the end. After completing this, you can move on to the stage of the process of demolition.
During the demolition phase of the process, you will find more parts that need to be replaced or repaired, so keep your list close at hand. Remember never to take too many pictures. ThePhotos will help you replace your car when it goes back together.
At first the process of demolition, I tell you, is one thing, you need a lot of boxes, can not be too many of them. As you pull the car will be boxing for the front-end like the steering, suspension, grille, bumper and label it.
Better to do this part, the easier the car back together, oh and by the way, you will need a lot of plastic bags of all sizes. They areYou also need a boat load of baggage labels are stored in bags that are nuts, bolts, screws and other small things that otherwise lost.
Do not think for a minute that you remember where every nut, bolt and screw came from. I do not care if you have a memory like an elephant, after the car sits for a while ', you forget. I say this from experience, that happened to me in the past.
Now we move Tara blast media stage. This is the stage where wethe car to a media-blasting company. Depending on how much money you have, is the support that you want to use to determine the explosion of the car.
I prefer to skip soda, because it does not damage the metal of the car, a blaster sand, people learning the ropes can ruin your classic car for you. For this reason I intend to use the extra money, he would order soda blast, or acid to move the car.
Both methods are messy to clean for you after you return, you'll be blowing sand, soda orfrom all the small cracks for a while '. Wet with acid, you will find that the cracks on the car too much, all you have to get out there.
If you do not leave sand or soda machine, comes out in your primer and paint. You know, this means that, ugly color, and acid, if you leave the bottom skin in areas that do not clean all the water is to purify the acid.
The next step is to work on the main body,like rust, frame damage, and large bruises. This is the moment when the real work begins. They are cutting, drawing, welding, grinding and so ready to get dirty here.
This phase usually lasts for a time, so be prepared to address properly the issue of hours. After finishing the cut, design, welding and grinding, you can work on the lens body to move. This is the stage where the car starts to look really good.
When you start this levelThe body has to work for the rough work on the body of your car already completed. This means that the body of the car all work areas and should be ready for muddy sand paper 40.
In finishing work platform body is working to complete the body. What this means is that you will continue downloading new scraper, where needed, and the completion of this work tool 80 sand paper files on the longer side on board, you can find.
It is necessary to control the body's silent work areas for eachonce in a while. You can use this by placing a cloth on the hand, and it works through your body to do the work area. The reason why I say, is simply a cloth that feels the job just as well.
The next step is a little metal polish, apply to your body, work areas, this is a more subtle type of filler for dents and very small waves developed. After applying the glaze, you can complete rod 180 grit sandpaper.
After the entire car to 180 sandpaper on a hand-finished board.Are you ready for the first phase of the primer. If you have a lot of bare spots, I'd suggest starting with a primer before moving on the bottom of urethane.
I always want to give any type of fund of at least 24 hours to dry. After the primer has dried you can beat it lightly with some 600 grit wet sandpaper, then spray the entire car with three coats of urethane primer high, wait 15 minutes between coats for the flash time.
That's it for this article, will cover theSanding of the primer in another article. I hope this has helped some of you.
